The above photo's were taken by Susan Usher.(UK). Thank you!

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Sterling Silver thimbles proved preferable to Brass, Iron and Steel, as silver kept cleaner than Brass and did not rust like iron. Silver is also kinder to wear on the finger, so silver is a better material for sewing purposes.

However, silver was not durable and by the 18th century, iron and steel caps were often fitted to the top of silver, brass and gold thimbles to make them less susceptible to wear.

This device was not entirely satisfactory, as the caps often worked loose and it became necessary to repair such thimbles by a process known as ‘topping’. Many users did not sew with the tip of the thimbles, but used the side resulting in damage to the silver.

Charles Horner, a retail jeweller in Hebden Bridge, Yorkshire, found and patented – in the late 1800’s a solution so successful that a hundred years later many of these thimbles are still in use. Charles Horner had an idea of constructing a thimble which would include a steel core for strength, but in every other respect would appear as a normal silver thimble.

In 1884, he patented this thimble and the description in the application read:

“The object of this my said invention is to manufacture a thimble of combined silver and steel, which shall possess all the advantages of silver, be durable and free from danger of being pierced or punctured as a steel thimble.

In the construction of thimbles according to this my said invention, I employ a outer casing of silver and corresponding in form to an ordinary silver thimble, but having a shoulder formed round its rim.

Within the outer casing is received a steel cup or lining and within the latter is received an inner lining of silver forming the interior of the thimble and having a hollow flange which is received on and encloses the shoulder of the outer silver casing which is burnished over completing a thimble having a steel lining which cannot be pierced.”

The Dorcas thimble, therefore, was really three thimbles inside one another.

His invention and claims regarding the durability were completely fulfilled and these steel lined thimbles were better balanced than those with steel tops.

These thimbles would have sold extremely well, without any additional effort. It appears that Charles Horner, besides being an ingenious jeweller, was a gifted salesman who appreciated the advantages of advertising and distribution of a standard pack at a standard price.

He first found a suitable name and he chose DORCAS, after the name of the woman mentioned in the bible called Tabitha, which by translation from the Greek is Dorcas – (Acts 9: 36-42). Dorcas lived in ancient Jaffa (Joppa) and made garments for the poor.

In Victorian England, many churches had a Dorcas Sewing Circle, where the ladies of the parish sewed for charity. The Singer Sewing Machine used the Dorcas theme on an advertising trade card that was copyrighted and distributed in 1895.

Next came a simple and attractive package. A dark blue presentation box was designed. Lastly the thimble was vigorously promoted, nationally.

His patent was registered on 14 June 1884 and in October of the same year he attended a celebration In Amsterdam, marking the (so called) 200 anniversary of the invention of the thimble by Nicolas Benschoten. He used the occasion to promote his new invention.

Advertisements were placed in numerous English publications. The ‘Queen’ a leading fashion magazine had a very favourable write-up on the 8 May 1886 about the Dorcas thimbles.

Various designs were chosen for the image of solidity and reliability and these included

The Plain Daisy
The Diamond Persian
Louise Star
Shell Flora (a mixture of Daisy and Diamond)
Engraved

These thimbles could not carry a hallmark, because of the steel lining, so besides the registered design number they could only have the mark PAT or patent and the size number. Largest 1 – smallest 15.

Therefore, Dorcas thimbles are easily identified. Their weight of 55dwts per dozen – 20dwts = 1 oz or 25 grams is somewhat heavier than silver thimbles of comparable size and the respond to a magnet.

When Dorcas thimbles were launched they were advertised at 2/6d (25 cents) each. Two years later they had been reduced to 1/9d (19 cents) plain and 2/- fancy (20c). By 1907 they were being sold at 1/6 (15c) plain and 1/9 (19c) fancy as an improved and cheaper method of manufacturing had been developed.

Although the prices seemed low, they were substantially higher than ordinary silver thimbles. They were more expensive, but they were known as a quality product with a national reputation.

Charles Horner moved to Halifax at 23 Northgate. Besides making Dorcas thimbles he also made silver and gold thimbles and they were readily identified by the initial CH and the Chester hallmark of 3 sheaves and a dagger together with a date mark. During 1900-1910 Charles Horner was the largest producer of silver thimbles, but as competition became fiercer and silver thimbles lost appeal, by 1925 Charles Horner only made Dorcas thimbles.

Charles Horner did not pay much attention to the overseas market. He did apply for a U.S. patent (probably as a defensive move against imitators) which was granted on 11 June 1889. He mostly exported to Commonwealth countries, including India, where Dorcas thimbles still turn up occasionally in Bazaars and confuse merchants because they appear to be silver, but are attracted by magnets. They were not well advertised overseas and export sales were largely dependent on loyal British followings, based on their British reputation.

In 1893 Princess Victoria Mary of Teck (known as Princess May) married Prince George – Duke of York. Charles Horner seized this occasion as an ideal advertising opportunity and designed the ‘Princess May’ pattern and engraved wreaths of York roses and May blossoms, joined by a true lovers knot. The gift was accepted and joined the many treasures which she, as Queen Mary (married to George V) amassed.

The Northgate premised became too small and in 1903 the company moved to new premises at Mile Cross Halifax, which became their headquarters and where they have remained ever since.

In 1905, they abandoned their retail activities and concentrated exclusively on the manufacturing side of the business. At first, they paid special attention to enamelled goods, but later switched to jewellery in chrome plate, rolled gold and gilt of medium cheapness and quality. The Dorcas patent remained their speciality.

Charles Horner the founder died in 1896, but Horners continued to run the business for many years. In 1909, the company became a limited company.

Improved Dorcas:

In 1905, a NEW method of construction was introduced and a NEW patent was granted. The basis of the new process was to take two pieces of gold, silver or other suitable metal and one of steel, bonding them together like a sandwich with the steel in the middle. The thimble was drawn from this sandwich of metal.

The thimbles manufactured by this method were marketed under the name of the ‘Improved Dorcas’. The packaging remained largely unaltered. The label under the box was changed to read:

“IMPROVED DORCAS thimble. Sterling Silver Steel lined, will be exchanged FREE OF CHARGE if rendered useless from any CAUSE. None genuine unless stamped Dorcas together with the initials CH and size number.”

In these days of throwaway products that are guaranteed to self destruct, it can be appreciated that these small sewing tools were indeed of a superb quality.

This unconditional guarantee helped to enhance the prestige of Dorcas Thimbles and helped to counteract competition. The wording changed slightly later, but the meaning and guarantee remained the same.

Other steel lined thimbles were produced by:

Henry Griffith & Son
England - DREEMA
(Fred Griffith had a daughter called Dreena and it is supposed that the Dreema was called after her

Walker & Hall
Sheffield - DURA

Charles Ills & Co - DORIS
Made for Abel Morrell Co. The rarest of all

Charles Ills & Co - DOROTHY
(A 1921 catalogue said that they were silver cased)

These later thimbles however, never attained the popularity and supremacy of the Dorcas thimble, although Dreema thimbles were still being advertised in 1935.

Gold Dorcas thimbles were inscribed – 9ct Steel lined with the CH and size number. The boxes were velvet lined with the usual guarantee underneath. Gold Dorcas thimbles are relatively rare, which suggests that they were not very popular.

In a sense, a gold Dorcas was an anachronism, as the Dorcas reputation was acquired because of their durability and hardwearing properties – an attribute not normally sought in gold thimbles. Further because of the steel lining the designs were limited and could not achieve the elegance of the better quality 18ct gold thimbles.

Collectors should beware that silver Dorcas thimbles are sometimes gold plated and offered as gold Dorcas, but the fraud can be detected because of the different markings.

The little Dorcas was developed with the same general characteristics as the Improved Dorcas, but sold slightly cheaper as it was shorter with a flatter top and which allowed for EXCEPTIONAL freedom of the finger joint, highly appreciated by needlewomen. Surviving specimens of the Little Dorcas are scarce. It is intriguing to note that eventually the Improved Dorcas was modified to have the same characteristics as the little Dorcas. The reason for this modification may have been to reduce costs, or to meet the changing customer demand. This change took place after 1905.

By 1914, the thimble market was contracting and some leading manufacturers (including James Fenton and Samuel Foskett) ceased production.

Charles Horner broadened the range of their activities and made rods and blanks for buttons in a variety of colours and sizes. They also supplied the standard gauge of rods suitable for knitting needles. However, the greatest decline in demand for thimbles, including Dorcas, came in the thirties, due to the world wide depression, growing use of the sewing machine and increased production and use of cheap plastic thimbles. The Dorcas reputation still allowed for these thimbles to be produced and sold and it was significant that Dorcas thimbles sold for 3/- (30c) each, at a time that Woolworths England were selling ordinary silver thimbles for 6d (5). Nevertheless, the market continued to decline and the demand for good quality thimbles fell to the point where production was no longer possible and production ceased about 1948.

It cannot be ignored that the very durability of the Dorcas contributed to its extinction. Not many of these thimbles come on to the market and may be ‘alive and well; in some sewing baskets serving their original purpose- protecting the finger of a hand-sewer.

The Charles Horner Company is still in existence but there are few written records or surviving employees from the Dorcas period and it appears that the trade name Dorcas has passed out of their control and is nowadays used by a company marketing dressmakers steel pins.

A letter written by Mr JG Hoosan, current Managing Director of Charles Horner, to an American thimble collector stated:

Unfortunately….. we no longer make these thimbles. The specialised machinery and staff, used to make these thimbles we no longer have or employ. A previous management of our company decided many years ago (about 25 years) that a quality thimble was no longer viable due to the market at that time being flooded with a much cheaper plastic article. It would appear however, by the requests we receive, that these thimbles do attract a certain amount of Trade, but this lack of specialised machinery which has been disposed of makes it impossible for us to remanufacture.

This letter was written in 1986. The company of Charles Horner is still in possession of a number of thimbles, both silver and Dorcas. Presumably, these have been retained by them as a collection of their previous production and are not for sale.

Dorcas stands for (please note that this is one person’s opinion):

D Durability and Design
O One only for life
R Really remarkable
C Charles Horner made them
A Always available
S Silver, steel lined makes them strong

Most of the information in this article was taken from Edwin Holmes’ book History of Thimbles, and other information was extracted from articles on the Dorcas Thimble.

Some more info on Dorcas thimbles:

The sizes of the thimbles wereas follows:

4,5,6,7,8,9,10,11 & 12

This is very cool!
I like the daisy one!